Now that Kings Cross is set to be one of the gastronomic hot spots of the capital, the Grain Store which opened last summer, is something of an oldster. But the decor is bright and fresh, and the crowd is mixed and enthusiastic. The menu was also mixed but the focus was clearly vegetables, with vegetarian and even vegan options abounding.
This was no place for the illiterate. An excellent stew was described as popcorn grits, spring onions, chestnut mushrooms, and prosciutto lardons. Sprouting seeds & beans, miso aubergine, crispy citrus chicken skin, and potato water proved to be a pleasant salad, less interesting than its description. More ordinary fare was available but the bread came with handmade creme fraiche butter, the chips with fresh herbs & garlic mayonnaise. The lager was British, organic, and biodynamic (and delicious). The ice cream was olive oil and fig leaf.
The Grain Store tries hard. The food is self consciously novel both in the selection of ingredients and in their compositions. The range is enormous with relatively simple one dish meals, omelettes risotto, and pancakes and complex composees. The wholesome air of the place manages to survive a substantial cocktail and wine list and background music. At the end of the meal we were invited to add £1 to our bill (we had spent £83 on a light lunch for three) to support their charity for malnourished children.
For those of us brought up on Private Eye’s Pseuds Corner, the Grain Store sometimes sails a bit close to the wind. But the feel good factor was plentiful and the food interesting and mostly delicious. Perhaps we enjoyed our meal all the more for having a good giggle. We will certainly be back.